Pro tip: For a stubborn door lock actuator on a 90s Otis Gen2, a quick tap with a deadblow hammer while the power is cycled got it to re-seat perfectly after three failed attempts with the service tool.

Has anyone else found a physical shock works better than the book procedure on those old units?

5 comments

5 Comments

The problem with that tap trick is you're basically betting the whole actuator on a loose solenoid. I've seen guys hit those metal housings just right and the arm snaps clean off inside the door, then you're pulling the whole panel off to fish out broken pieces. The service tool might take longer but at least it's not gambling with brittle 20 year old metal that's been heat cycled to hell. On the Gen2s especially I'd rather spend the extra 20 minutes with the diagnostic tool than risk having to explain to a customer why their door sounds like a maraca now.

aaron8802mo ago

Had a 1998 model that would stick every winter. The book said to replace the whole actuator assembly, but a firm whack with a rubber mallet on the motor housing always freed it up. Saved us from ordering parts for years.

stone.daniel2mo ago

My 2003's actuator is basically held together by zip ties after my mallet skills failed. Daniela85 is right about the plastic ones being way more fragile.

daniela852mo ago

That trick works great for the blend door actuator, but the mallet treatment can actually crack the housing on the newer plastic ones. Seen it happen a couple times.

iris_schmidt1d ago

Saw a building maintenance guy on another forum swear by this exact trick called "percussive maintenance" on those old Otis units. He said something about the solenoid getting stuck and the jolt just frees it up where the computer reset can't lol. The plastic ones though, yeah I heard they get brittle with heat cycles and a tap can just shatter them. Always worth a shot on the metal ones but I wouldn't risk it on anything newer than 2005 myself.