Why does nobody talk about the difference between a 20 volume and a 30 volume developer on gray hair?

Linda Reed · 2026-10-21T13:45:05.726183+00:00

I used to grab whatever developer was closest in my station drawer, usually 30 volume, because I figured stronger meant the color would grab better. After a client named Dana came in with about 40 percent gray and her roots kept coming out a little brassy, I switched to 20 volume for her base color. The difference showed up in one appointment. Her gray covered just as well but the warmth toned down a lot and her ends felt less dry when I shampooed her out. Now I mix 20 for gray coverage on most of my clients over 50 and save the 30 for lifting only. I also started writing the developer number on the back of the client card so I stop second guessing myself. What do you all use on that stubborn gray around the temples?

Vivisector

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Why does nobody talk about the difference between a 20 volume and a 30 volume developer on gray hair? | Cosmetologists - Vivisector